new Tripower install
Quote from sonoraed on November 8, 2019, 9:22 amStopped by the Fitech booth at Sema Tuesday and talked to gentleman who knew you well (forgot his name) he said they were a small over whelmed company and trying to solve the problems we have alluded to, told him the tech team would not be so busy if products instructions were easier for the layman to understand.
I also feel Fitech would be wise to tell customers in advance that a speed density fuel injection system may not work well with low manifold vacuum radical cam engines, he said there good to 4" on vacuum, I'm no expert.
I had to miss this year's SEMA. Kinda bummed. Glad you got to meet the Fitech crew. Bunch of good people.
I can confirm that a lot of the issues and lacking of information is getting corrected now and over this next year. A lot of exciting things coming in 2020. The company has gone through a reorganization of sorts and those who were holding the company back are gone now. With that said, information is getting out. It is difficult to spread all the knowledge to all users. Every build is different and requires different parameters. The original design and focus of Fitech was the weekend hotrod market. In most cases a mild 350. The product has proven to perform favorably in many aspects of performance. Therefore, we are all trying to learn and teach for each instance.
Great example going on for me right now. I have recently got hooked up with a bunch of rock crawlers in my area. In their sport EFI is necessary. But, they don't do a lot of full throttle action. Much of time they are below 2000 RPM and are moving the Throttle a lot. I have been dialing in their tunes, but still learning what the tune needs for this application. Next weekend I am going out with a bunch to do some testing in some good terrain. Looking forward to it.
Got the Nomad running about a week ago, fired right up and ran pretty good, made initial settings for the timing control etc only issue was idle was 1050 in neutral 850 in drive, could not get idle down, went for a test drive and ran way better than original 3-2 setup.
Smoke tested the intake manifold for possible leaks causing high idle but found none, last tuesday Nomad went to a dyno shop for fine tuning. at first they freaked out because they couldn't connect to there laptop, then fitech support was confusing them with word files (they told me) , I told the guy he needed to do a little research on Fitech to understand how it works, he said he would so left the Nomad there, yesterday the dyno shop called the owner of the vehicle and said they got it tuned, owners out of town so we will go down Monday and see.
just wondering does anyone have a fitech that actually runs good with no problem?
I think all after market EFI unit owners know where you are coming from. We are fitting them to vehicles not designed for EFI, the units don't have the necessary safeguards built in [shielding etc] to overcome this, we don't get enough advice on installation to overcome the usually basic requirements that are needed to make it an enjoyable experience. I don't think they have worked out why the tech centre is overwhelmed, management would be doing themselves a favour by supplying "installation for dummies", all the negatives must be affecting their bottom line. By marketing the units as self learning they are not doing themselves a favour. It appears they have developed a great innovation and now are too busy patting themselves on the back to advance the product.
I've got 2 that work well now on small block chevy motors, one a 383 with moderate cam, and the other a 454 with monster cam with only 5" Hg at idle. I don't run timing control on either. The 383 has a 600 go EFI 4, and the other a Meanstreet 800. The kiss of death on these was leaks around the O2 sensor that I had to resolve. You have to wire the fitech to the battery directly, not to the starter off battery cable, need to shield the tach wire to the tachometer, I have HEI on both cars with tach output. Battery has to be fully charged. Unlike a carb car, an EFI car has to have nearly full voltage at the fitech input while cranking the engine over. I have voltage gauges on both cars to tell me what the voltage is at the fitech power input while cranking the engine over. If it's less that about 11 volts, don't even bother cranking it over, because it will not initialize correctly and will foul out your plugs. I had to get Odyssey 850 CCA batteries for both cars to prevent that from happening. Need to ground the body of the fitech well. As long as I did these things, both cars have been running great ever since. Good luck!