Trouble codes
Ok, sorry about that. This first file is a road test that lasted a couple of blocks before it was like riding a bull at the Houston Rodeo. Limped back home, talked to some of your facebook folks who suggested it was a fuel and not an ignition problem...
https://www.dropbox.com/s/90m471gaedolwue/DashBoard8%20-%20Fuel%20or%20ignition%20problem.csv?dl=0
This next one is after correcting the fuel pump ground (was to a rusty frame point, now cleaned, star washered, and lithium greased along with a direct connect to battery ground). Pump was definitely stronger, but never made it passed the idle test - felt like it was alternating between running on six or seven cylinders and running on all eight. Never settled down, but didnt' ever stall. During this log data I was attempting to adjust the driver's side screw to attain the IAC Steps between 3 and 10
This last one is just a bonus idle after fiddling with the settings a little here and there (a very little really).
https://www.dropbox.com/s/48l8mqmhal51fzp/DashBoard10%20More%20bad%20idle.xlsx?dl=0
Hopefully the links work, and thanks again for taking a look.
Ok Rich, first was the engine up to operating temperature? Unit never shows over 140. Possible bad CTS sensor. You can find the replacement part number and link for a replacement.
Judging by the rest of the issues, I would say you have a ground issue and maybe electrical interference. Grounds that never fail. 2ga battery to block ,10ga battery to body, 10ga battery to frame. Also shield your blue wire if not using timing control. Ground the blue wire if not using it. Run all Fitech wires away from plug wires, battery cables, coil, etc...
Let us know....
Sorry part number and link in the Replacement Parts and Accessories topic.
Wow, you are fast and I appreciate that! The engine is up to temp (gauge is showing between 173 or so and 180). I followed all of your links to amazon replacement parts and just today received the CTS sensor and the fan relay. BTW, if I put the ACDelco CTS in do you still recommend updating the handheld software to 198i? The remaining parts on your list are in my "Chevelle" shopping list.
I will definitely upgrade the grounds - I have been finding additional indications that make me think ultimately I'm going to be rewiring the whole vehicle.
The FiTech is currently controlling the ignition, which consists of an HEI modified to a 2-wire and a MSD 6AL (don't know why this is the configuration, as I didn't build it, but I think it should work). So, I am using the blue wire and I also think it is possible that the 6AL wiring may need shielding as well. Any shielding tips or products you've had good luck with?
As for running the wires away from interference, have you ever lengthened these wires? I was doing my best to avoid that because of the connectors (don't know if I can easily source new ones). Being a 350 SBC, it might be difficult to route the harness very far away from the distributor. Any routing advice - curently I run under the gap in the intake manifold, then follow the back of the engine block?
You are a goldmine of information and advice. Is your donations link live and the money gets to you? Your help is sincerely appreciated.
Rich
Thanks for the comments. Yes the donation link is live and is much appreciated.
If the Fitech is running the timing control, then the 2 wire shielded harness should be connected to the distributor and the black wire should be going to the 6al and the blue wire should not be used or just grounded. Double check this. Make sure there isn't something connected wrong.
Reminds me that I need to upload the wiring diagrams. Would come in handy in this conversation.
When running timing control interference is not as common. I also run my wires under the Air Gap. For now, let's upgrade the grounds and check the wiring install....
Will do. I went and took a quick look at the wiring - both for grounding and for interference. I believe there is a good possibility for both.
First, I noticed that someone grounded the engine block with a 2 AWG wire to the chrome fuel pump delete. I don't believe chrome is a good conductor. I am going to change that to 1 AWG to directly to a starter bolt, then 1 AWG to chasis and body (I have a fair amount of 1 AWG black wire from a C10 rewire). I will also ground each header and the alternator just for good measure. To combat potential interference I'll add spark plug wire separators that also lift those above the the engine block. Right now, multiple plug wires are jammed between the firewall and engine block in very close proximity to the 2-wire and the 6-wire (I think I counted 6) connectors, so also not good. I'm probably wrong about the blue wire, so I will double check. Just seem to remember a blue wire looked like it was being used (could be from the 6al maybe).
Will update after I get those changes accomplished.
Finally had a day to play around. Upgraded all grounds to 1AWG. Verified the tach wire (blue wire) is not being used and grounded it. Rerouted the harness and spark plug wires as far away from each other as possible. Replaced the CTS with ACDelco sensor. Tomorrow I will replace the fan relay. Then, begin the testing and tuning.
One question first, I deleted some old log files. To ensure I can record new log files I have to delete the log folder, right?
No, delete the dashboard file inside the log file.
Ah, thanks. Dashboard folder.
Ok, so grounds upgraded to the extreme and fan relay connected correctly. All systems go, or rather not so much.
I went to test it and it would only crank. Tried opening the butterflies a little. Nothing. Read the forum "won't start" threads and just tried the advice saying to turn the idle screw in. Did a quarter of a turn, no difference. Did another quarter turn, it coughed once. Next time a half turn and it fired a couple of times, but nothing more. Started turning it quarter turns again and it steadily fired more and finally caught a couple of times. BUT, I was probably 2.5 to 3 turns in when it started and held for maybe 10 t0 15 sec0nds and stopped. Maybe not good because I'm thinking ala Stroker more is better than a little, so I kept turning the idle screw and it kept starting better - first crank. Almost just look at it and it fires up, but then it runs up to about 1900 rpm for a couple of seconds and just stops like a kill switch is thrown.
A little worried because I think I'm about near bottomed out on the idle screw. I wasn't around when the screw was originally set, but I do know it ran well when if first got it, even with obvious ground problems so I don't know what was done originally. Should I have been able to turn that screw somewhere around 3 to 4 full turns? Is there a way to set it back to "factory" and begin again?