Trouble codes
Quote from Rich on May 6, 2019, 8:06 pmOk, so grounds upgraded to the extreme and fan relay connected correctly. All systems go, or rather not so much.
I went to test it and it would only crank. Tried opening the butterflies a little. Nothing. Read the forum "won't start" threads and just tried the advice saying to turn the idle screw in. Did a quarter of a turn, no difference. Did another quarter turn, it coughed once. Next time a half turn and it fired a couple of times, but nothing more. Started turning it quarter turns again and it steadily fired more and finally caught a couple of times. BUT, I was probably 2.5 to 3 turns in when it started and held for maybe 10 t0 15 sec0nds and stopped. Maybe not good because I'm thinking ala Stroker more is better than a little, so I kept turning the idle screw and it kept starting better - first crank. Almost just look at it and it fires up, but then it runs up to about 1900 rpm for a couple of seconds and just stops like a kill switch is thrown.
A little worried because I think I'm about near bottomed out on the idle screw. I wasn't around when the screw was originally set, but I do know it ran well when if first got it, even with obvious ground problems so I don't know what was done originally. Should I have been able to turn that screw somewhere around 3 to 4 full turns? Is there a way to set it back to "factory" and begin again?
Are you running at least 18 in of exhaust past O2 sensor. May have asked you this before. Slept since then, but this sounds like open exhaust symptoms.
Nope, first ask. Yes, new 3in exhaust runs to just before the rear axle. Not sure how long, but certain it's longer than 18 inches.
Can you get a Datalog?
I captured a few:
First one is just cranking before I began adjusting the idle screw: https://www.dropbox.com/s/kho85tavvqnjydm/Dashboard13%20-%20Cranking%20no%20fire%203.csv?dl=0
Began adjusting the idle screw to no satisfaction (there were several of these, but just representative): https://www.dropbox.com/s/ztv90utay3jvesg/DashBoard14%20-%20Cranking%20fired%20once.csv?dl=0
Fires right up, idles fast and dies like a switch is thrown as screw adjusted clockwise: https://www.dropbox.com/s/ypvoxb5auvfipjx/DashBoard15%20Fires%20up%20idles%20fast%20dies.csv?dl=0
More of the same, but this time captured 3 cycles (crank - immediate ignition - idles fast) - dies): https://www.dropbox.com/s/wg4i2kw84syo97b/DashBoard16%20-%203%20attempts%20to%20capture%20problem.csv?dl=0
Have you troubleshooted your ignition system? This is very perplexing from my standpoint. I would think it is something simple.
As much as I can, I think. Looks to be connected right. I'm getting spark, and I think that is all I can check on the 6AL without MSD's pricey tester. The plugs (the couple I've removed) look ok. It runs smoothly when it runs so I think the plug wires and connections are good. The coil is new. I have the timing light out, but until I can get it idling for more than a few seconds I can't check the advance. I don't know what the timing was set at when it got locked out, and I cannot check the rotor phasing because the coil is integrated into the dizzy cap, unless there is some super secret method I am unaware of.
I hope it is something simple. I'm considering sending the 6al to MSD to test it, or maybe buying their billet distributor and the phased rotor, or taking ignition control back from the FiTech. But, I'd rather figure out what's not quite right. So, probably play around with the idle screw a little more first.
I modify small cap HEI distributors. They are cheap and were built for timing control. Already phased. I have one listed on the Parts and Accessories topic.
If I get to replacing the ignition, will definitely consider your distributor in the redesign.
I assume these are already locked out if built for EFI timing control, so curious as to what mods you make? Also, not sure I understand the concept of phasing a rotor without first setting the timing. Is that like getting close enough given typical BBC/SBC timing requirements? Just wondering how that would work without knowing cam characteristics and such.
Quote from Rich on May 9, 2019, 9:57 amIf I get to replacing the ignition, will definitely consider your distributor in the redesign.
I assume these are already locked out if built for EFI timing control, so curious as to what mods you make? Also, not sure I understand the concept of phasing a rotor without first setting the timing. Is that like getting close enough given typical BBC/SBC timing requirements? Just wondering how that would work without knowing cam characteristics and such.
Yes, the small cap HEI is a non advance distributor. Nothing lock out. Simply remove the module and add harness like you would for MSD box or Fitech timing control.
A factory large cap HEI with locked out mechanical advance is tricky to phase. I have never seen a phaseable rotor for these.
Could phasing be the problem (I'm running a large cap, locked out HEI)? Seems like I would notice a very rough idle, or worse, with an out of phase rotor condition, not a rpm surge and cutoff. Do you agree?