FITECH 39001 low idle cannot adjust up
Didn't mean to be short with you. Was trying to reply quickly.
This goes back to why I ask folks to watch their handheld when things go wrong. The handheld will tell you. When the RPM goes maxed out like that, it is a sign of electrical interference.
Let me explain this way. These old vehicles were not built to the electrical standards of today. Remember adding new car stereos and experiencing feedback? Your problem is very similar. EFI is very sensitive to Electrical Magnetic Interference, EMI. New cars are built to keep these problems from happening. You are putting 2018 computer technology into a 50+ year old vehicle.
Here is the kick in the ass... Every car, every build is different. I installed my first system very sloppy and had no issues. Others never make it out of the drive way. Yours has intermittent problems. Many things can be to blame. It maybe fine in a cool dry environment and not run for shit in a hot humid environment. But, it comes back to the same result, EMI.
I have many guys that run the blue wire, no timing control, and get along just fine. I won't use the blue wire. All my builds use timing control. Biggest reason is because of the risk of having your issues. I upgrade my alternator, others still use a low amp external regulated alternator. I have never ran a ground to the unit, others must.
I am positive there is a solution. If I were there with you, we may find it quicker. Unfortunately that's not possible.
I share your frustration. My Camaro has been an electrical nightmare. It has Gremlins that I have not found. The Fitech is running great, but sometimes the engine won't crank, sometimes it won't shut off, sometimes it drains the batteries. Everything is brand new. The car has been complete for over a year and I am so disgusted that I won't work on it. I drive it out of the shop and usually end up pushing back in...
Quote from Dubvalman on January 6, 2019, 11:49 amAny suggestions what may be causing it now?
- The blue wire has been shieled from just before the eyelet connector at the coil up to the factory connector block
- The white wire is fed more or less directly from the battery - circuit switched through a relay
- Earth fitted between TBI unit and the battery -ve
Where would it be getting the interference now? Would it be possible that interference is being induced by the vehicles wiring harness? The Fitech loom is paralleled with the vehicle loom - could it be that susceptible to interference that laying beside the vehicle loom for a short distance is upsetting it so much?
Again thank you for your input - it is really appreciated
That is a good place to start.
Hi Austin,
Do you think it would be worth while to wrap the original Loom in EMI shielding tape?
The alternator is a new single wire high output - no external regulator. I could a fit suppressor to the output and earth. I could also install some Clip-on Ferrite Ring Core RFI EMI Noise Suppressor Cable Clips on the various looms/wires which pass near the Fitech loom.
The ignition is a HEI electronic distributor mounted unit - not points. Again could use the clip on suppressors for the wiring to this.
Another option could be I isolate the Fitech loom and bundle it up at the rear of the intake manifold away from the car loom. Will look crap but would be mostly concealed by the air filter. Or is it that the engine bay is acting as a cage and amplifying any EMI that's there and I will have to completely shield all Fitech wiring?
Any of those could help. I would start with the simplest first. Move the loom.
Hi Austin,
So below – sorry it’s a bit long.
First – just giving a different perspective on your comment about new technology on old technology and the effects from EMI.
Secondly – patience may be thin with this Fitech equipment, but I do want to find out why its misbehaving, but there must be a stop limit set – and this is the last chance I will give it to come right.
I can see your point about the EMI more or less being “indicative” of older vehicles wiring, but it does make you wonder why FiTech has not developed sufficient shielding for its product. Let’s face it, this product is targeted at vehicles which were built pre-early nineties – fuel injection being standard on production cars after that period. It’s in the sale pitch!
“Introducing the all new Go EFI 2 Barrel system ………….. ready to put an end to cold start issues, hesitations, vapor lock, and flooding? …………. delivering an old-school carburetor look with EFI technology and reliability. ……………. restoring your weekend cruiser ………………………. FiTech once again allows you to ditch that old carburetor and advance into the EFI world at the most affordable price on the planet!”
Given the number of posts on forums relating to tuning, issues and the repeated mention of EMI – you have to ask; “Why isn’t Fitech addressing this issue at the manufacturing stage” I can install other modern electronic equipment without the issues Fitech equipment brings to the party – EMI related that is. From a consumer perspective – Fitech is being somewhat remiss in this matter. If the system is susceptible to EMI – and they are not willing to install shielding at point of manufacture – then provide clear instructions on how to address it during installation and what type of shielding works best with their equipment.
Final attempt to cure its ails.
Now for a solution with my “teenager-esk” EFI; to soften its cough and hopefully address the petulant erratic weird behavior I have ordered an EMI shielded enclosure which will mount on the firewall behind and to the right of the intake manifold. There is no original wiring in this location, except for the heater blower wiring which runs along under the plenum lip. This wiring will have suppressors fitted at both ends of its run that are exposed outside of the firewall and the where it goes into the blower motor.
There should be approximately 3 to 4” of gap between the blower motor wiring and the EFI wiring when I route the EFI wiring into the enclosure. This will leave a short run of the FiTech factory sleeved wiring from the throttle body unit along the rear of the intake manifold to the enclosure. All wiring connectors will be in the enclosure and the wires from Wiring Harness "A" necessary for connecting the unit to the vehicle will then be routed back out of the enclosure through grommets and encased in more of the braided shielding as used previously on the blue wire.
Suppressors will be installed on the alternator wiring, the starter solenoid wiring, the blower motor wiring (as previously mentioned), the temperature gauge wire, and the radiator fan motor wiring (not currently installed, but to be fitted with the new radiator). I will also use clip on suppressors on any exposed wires within the engine bay. They are cheap and just clip over the wire – so might as well be looking at them, than for them. and I will install the new O2 sensor,
Once all that is done, I will;
- Run an EMF/EMI detector over the wiring looms and suppress anywhere a high reading is indicated
- reset all learning in the handheld; - key off until the dashboard numbers clear
- write Cal to ECU; - key off until the dashboard numbers clear
- then re-enter all initial setup data – saving each change as its made – followed by - key off until the dashboard numbers clear
Then it will be restart time – Should the vehicle drive reasonably and behave in a manner conducive to be being used, I will give it a long mixed driving run and every opportunity to learn. Following that I will seek your council regarding fine tuning/tweaking.
If the vehicle does not start and drive reasonably out of the box, so to speak, this time – it will be FiTech off. If the above does not address the suspected EMI issues, then it must be a faulty unit and further pandering will be pointless and a waste of time and money.
I have been at this every weekend and some week days for the last 3 months – enough is enough.
Post a picture of your wiring please....
Will do - I go to work in the dark and come home in the dark at the moment, so may be weekend before I get a decent image.
It's daylight over here in the States.😁
I suppose that's one of the draw backs of living in a more Northerly latitude during winter 😕
Further reading in preparation for the cure of the Fitech Flue has introduced another possible source of interference. In the Sniper installation instructions right at the beginning under the Read this bit first - Holley highlights the information and instruction - not to use solid core ignition wires - it says that ignition wires such as MSD 8.5mm super conductor should only be used.
This could just be up selling, but it may also be a contributing factor to EMI?
I have ordered MSD 8.5mm Super Conductor wire and I already have boots and connectors - make and fit new leads has now been added to the to do list for this Saturday.
I assumed you were running shielded plug wires. I run 8.5 MSD wires on my Camaro. For mild to stock engines, I run the MSD Street Fire wires.
Also must use resistor spark plugs.