FITECH 39001 low idle cannot adjust up
Stripped out the wiring with the intentions of installing as per the plan. Once I had it all I out I reflected on the lengths it is taking to get this technology to work and decided to install it along the lines of other technology (wiring without all the additional shielding) I have fitted, with the firm commitment that if it does not work after this round then the Sniper unit that arrived Friday will replace this one. The policy being that this is new technology is designed to be installed on older vehicles and if the manufacturer has failed to shield against the most likely sources of EMI then I am not here to do that. It increases my concerns regarding reliability of this product.
- The unit wiring looms were bundled together and routed along the manifold neatly.
- The tach wire (blue) still with the shielding I installed was routed as best as possible from other wiring and sources of EMI.
- White wire routed similary. The +12v feeding this coming from the battery through an ignition switch relay.
- -12v to earth the unit, wire ran directly from the battery and connected to the earth braid I previous installed.
- +12v wire for the main feed for the unit ran directly from the battery.
- O2 sensor wires ran away from other wires and connected to the O2 sensor located approximately 6" from the collector of the headers with a full stainless exhaust system exiting aft of the rear axle under the bumpers.
- MSD 8.5 super conductor ignition wires made and fitted.
- Another new set of E3 spark plugs installed.
Started the vehicle - shock, astonishment, disbelief - the engine fired up ran at the warm up idle and when operating temperature was reach the idle dropped to the preset and idled smooth. The engine revved reasonably clean. I drove the vehicle for 60 promising kms and was starting to modify my opinion of the unit and its heritage. After approximately 70km - my original opinion and belief in the system heritage were reinforced. Stumbling, flat spots, high idle, low idle, surging- the exact opposite of how it had been driving. Nursed it home AGAIN and more pushing to get it into the garage.
Closed the door on it with the intention of removing the Fitech altogether and fitting the Sniper the following day. The following day I was about to start when I gave it a reprieved - the only thing I haven't checked or changed at this stage is the O2 sensor (it must be coming with a runner with a clef stick - ordered some time ago but not here yet).
I had a spare fuel pump so I thought I would install that. I noticed an increase in the fuel pressure but it is impossible to get the vehicle to idle at the correct speed. Also it always requires throttle to start now. Adjust the idle to idling at 750 ish and the IACs are way to high. Follow the instructions to correct this and it will idle high with IACs slowly fluctuating between 0 - 2 and occasionally 4. With broad speed range changes 800 to 1100 as it idles.
Drove the vehicle and it has a flat spot each time you accelerate; adjusted according to Fitech instructions - no change. Apart from the poor starting and the flat spots when gently or fast accelerating it does drive reasonably OK - nothing to write home about, but it does appear to be better than previous attempts.
Very fed up with this system at this stage. Definitely last chance when the O2 sensor gets here.
You are still telling me symptoms and not what the handheld or datalog is saying. EFI takes a different approach than than Carbs. And throwing parts at it is probably not going to solve your problems.
I am trying not to get short with you, but this is not a place to rant. Go to Facebook for that. We are here to help. All of us with multiple functioning units. Blame it on Fitech all you want. You may have received a bad unit, I'm not sure. I can't help you if you don't give me the information requested.
I can tell you 2-4 IAC steps is too low. I want to see at least 10. Also, if you have a tachometer, it will be plugged into the same place as your blue wire. Unplug your tach. See if that is the problem.
The system is working, then it goes bad after 30 minutes. Definately, from what I gather looks like an EMI issue. What electrical device would come on or change after 30 minutes that would cause this issue. Could you have turned on the lights, radio, cigarette lighter, etc? Are you losing fuel pressure when it starts running bad?
If I remember correctly, you are running an FCC. Did you set your PWM to 40?
Btw, don't worry about the flat spot until we figure out the main issue. Steps must be done in the correct order or you will find yourself chasing the tune.
I wanted to try and attain I formation to correct a malfunctioning system. I have used information from the hendheld - the numbers in the post for example.
Thanks you have provided a solution
This should have read - Thanks you, haven't provided a solution; posted from my phone so i think maybe some preemptive texting there - my apologies. ( update 21/01/2019)
Hi
I have been watching this conversation with interest as I have very similar issues.
The car starts and idles fine and it will drive ok for the first 5 min or so then it starts running like a hairy goat, coughs, farts and splutters and has absolutely no power.
I noticed on todays drive that the handset was reading under 12V for battery charge. 11.4V at idel and 11.7V at revs, max.
This was verified with my battery tester when I finally got home, battery state of charge 12V and the generator failed the charge test.
I am guessing the Fitech wont like this and it could be the cause of my problems.
Anyway Im charging the battery and will update after I have gone for a drive with a fully charged battery.
Im interested in your comments.
Thanks Mark
Quote from mark_j@windowslive.com on January 15, 2019, 10:38 pmHi
I have been watching this conversation with interest as I have very similar issues.
The car starts and idles fine and it will drive ok for the first 5 min or so then it starts running like a hairy goat, coughs, farts and splutters and has absolutely no power.
I noticed on todays drive that the handset was reading under 12V for battery charge. 11.4V at idel and 11.7V at revs, max.
This was verified with my battery tester when I finally got home, battery state of charge 12V and the generator failed the charge test.
I am guessing the Fitech wont like this and it could be the cause of my problems.
Anyway Im charging the battery and will update after I have gone for a drive with a fully charged battery.
Im interested in your comments.
Thanks Mark
Mark
Had a similar issue with my first install on "Trusty Rusty", my daily 67 c10. In fact it wasn't the battery, it was the alternator. It couldn't keep up. Ended up frying and left me on the side of the road when I got down to 11.5 volts.
I bo7ght an alternator for a late 80s camaro, knowing those refuel injected and had higher amp output. Problem solved. I always recommend at least 100 amps and a 10 awg wire directly to the battery. Don't run anything to the starter solenoid except for battery power.
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Hi
The problem was a faulty regulator. Now its charging at 14+ volts it seems to be running fine.
Only time will tell.
As I first suspected it is a faulty unit. I have been offered a replacement or a refund.
I struggled for nearly 3 months trying to correct the problems it was producing - my gut told me it was a faulty unit, but given the distances and delays with shipping etc - I became blinkered to it must be a fault on the vehicle causing the issues. It was when the comments here were leading to removing serviceable factory equipment to "address" the erratic behavior of the most likely source/cause of the problem. So I removed the suspected offending item, did what I said in an earlier post - problem solved. I have contacted the supplier and they have offered me a replacement of full refund - minus return shipping. I think I will be taking up the replacement offer.
I selected the Fitech unit based on research and it won because on paper it demonstrated all the attributes I was looking for, and it appeared to have the greater reliability in its manufacture and quality assurance. I do like the design and other elements of the Fitech unit, and I now have experience of the two market leaders in this technology so I think I will give another Fitech unit a go. The unit I fitted to replace the 39001 worked out of the box and has convinced me that EFI is viable solution for my old classics. It is just a pity I received a faulty unit first off. Happily that is behind me and a definitive reason and solution has been found.
Sorry I was a part of that. Faulty units are not common. I have personally seen Fitech's testing facility and can backup that they test every unit. But, machines are foulable and people are foulable. I am going to ask for what the problem was when they receive the unit. I am very curious. These throttle body units are all very similar when it comes to the electronics, if not identical. Also they build and assemble their own units at there own facility. The difference is in the injectors, spray ports and different features. Again truly sorry but glad you finally have the answer.
I am curious how a TBI system will perform on your straight 6. My Mom has a 63 C10 with a 230. She wants to try a system.
I have close to a hundred miles on it now with the new unit (not a Fitech), and it drives really really well . Starts on the button, idles smooth, pulls smooth and strong through the rev range. No hesitations, no flat spots and is sharp and responsive on the throttle. The car even produces more power! It will easily break traction and lay rubber if you get a bit lively on the throttle - BONUS 🙂 unexpected, but welcome
If the Fitech works as well - then for sure this would be the way forward. I am looking forward to getting back a good Fitech unit and trying it on my other classic; that one is a SB 318 - so I most likely wont be able to say how a 39001 performs on a straight 6 - but I think it would be great - all things considered. They have been designed for the smaller engines and I have read about them being fitted to smaller 6's than mine and even 4 cylinders with good results.